The click must be followed by a reward to enforce the classical conditioning.  Approximately 96% of dogs are food orientated so the obvious choice is food, however if your dog is indifferent about treats, you can use toys.

It is important to use “value” treats.  Think of if you were being asked to do something.  If someone asked you “Please go and post this letter and I will give you a plate of cabbage”, the motivation is not very strong (unless you like cabbage!).  If someone asked you “Please go and post this letter and I will give you a bar of chocolate”, you are much more likely to post the letter.

The principle is exactly the same for your dog – he will work for something he likes.  Biscuits and other crunchy items are generally not a good idea as you want the treat to be “quick” with less chance of him coughing on crumbs!  Every dog has a particular favourite food – Doris my wonder Rott will work enthusiastically for chicken, beef or bacon.  I would get a different result if I offered her a digestive biscuit!

You know your dog so pick something he likes – good choices are usually chicken, liver, cheese or sausage.  Food pieces should always be small as you will be clicking and treating quite often and we don’t want the dog to fill up and lose interest!

Why clicker train?

Good question.  Lets look at the more traditional methods of training and assess the dogs learning pattern.

Many of us have taught through the more traditional methods e.g. to make a dog sit, we will push down on his rump, to stop a dog pulling on the lead, we deliver a “check” on a choke chain.  You may be asking yourself, why should I teach with a clicker, I’ve taught through these methods for years and they have worked.

With the more force based methods, we are not allowing the dog to think for himself – we are forcing him to do something that he doesn’t really understand.  A good example of this is the choke chain.

If a dog is “checked” everytime he pulls on the lead, he has learnt to heel through avoidance of pain (negative reinforcement).  Clicker training works entirely on positive reinforcement, the dog is empowered to work for then end result.  Lets go back to our example of a motivating reward – the theory is the same! 

If someone asks you “Please go and post this letter or I will thump you”, you would probably post the letter because you are frightened of the consequences.  If someone asks you “Please go and post this letter and I will give you a box of chocolates”, you would feel empowered to undertake the task.

Dogs are very intelligent animals but unfortunately our language is beyond them.  We confuse them by delivering a tirade of commands in different tones of voice – the dog may well perform the action you want by accident rather than design!

By clicker training, the dog is allowed to use his brain to get the end result.  A dog is extremely quick to pick up on rewarded behaviour and the clicker works by a technique called “shaping”.

Shaping is rewarding the behaviour in stages.   Think of making bread – you have a lump of dough that resembles nothing.  You knead and shape it to produce the end result.  We are letting our dog work out what’s required and what do you get from this?

	The dog has a wonderful working relationship with his handler, devoid of fear and confusion.
	The dog is using his brain – most dogs will display undesirable behaviour just out of boredom.  A dog with an occupied brain is healthy, happy and no trouble!

Other than the two obvious reasons, there are many more advantages to clicker training.

	It captures the exact behaviour (rather like taking a photo!);
	It is much faster and more accurate than the spoken command.  Try to keep your voice consistent – hard isn’t it?  Our voice will always alter dependant on our mood.  The clicker methods also allows any family member to train.
	It is an extremely good system for nervous or agitated dogs who can get upset at differing tones of voice.